Common Well Problems
What's Wrong With Your Well?
Use this guide to identify your symptoms and understand what's likely causing them. Then call us — we'll diagnose and fix it right the first time.
Don't wait — call us now. We answer 24/7 and prioritize no-water calls.
Problem #1
No Water At All
You turn on the tap and nothing comes out, or the pressure drops to nothing within seconds. This is the most urgent well problem — and fortunately, it's usually fixable the same day.
Likely Causes
- Failed submersible pump — most common cause, especially in older systems
- Tripped circuit breaker — check your electrical panel first
- Failed pressure switch — the switch that tells the pump to turn on
- Burned-out control box — the electrical component that starts the pump motor
- Broken drop pipe or check valve — water not reaching the surface
What to Do
Check the breaker first — a tripped breaker is a free fix. If it's not the breaker, call us. A no-water diagnostic takes under an hour and we carry most replacement parts on the truck.
Emergency Response
Problem #2
Low Water Pressure
Pressure that used to be fine is now weak — or just never seems to be enough. Low pressure is one of the most common well complaints and can have several different causes.
Likely Causes
- Waterlogged pressure tank — the most common cause, easy and inexpensive to fix
- Incorrect pressure switch setting — pressure cut-in/cut-out may be set too low
- Failing pump — worn impellers reduce output over time
- Partial blockage in the system — sediment buildup or partially closed valve
- Too many fixtures drawing water simultaneously — undersized pump for current demand
What to Do
A waterlogged tank is the #1 culprit. The tank loses its air charge and the pump short-cycles constantly. We can diagnose and replace it in a single visit — and your pressure returns immediately.
Pressure Diagnostic
Problem #3
Pump Running Constantly
Your pump runs non-stop, or you hear it cycling on and off rapidly (short-cycling). Both are warning signs that the system is working much harder than it should — and burning out your pump motor in the process.
Likely Causes
- Waterlogged pressure tank — loses air charge, forces pump to run constantly
- Leak in the pressure system — water leaving the system faster than the pump can maintain pressure
- Failing pump — can't reach the cut-off pressure, so it never shuts off
- Stuck pressure switch — switch not opening the circuit when pressure is reached
What to Do
Don't ignore this. A pump that never shuts off will fail prematurely — and a failed pump means no water. If you notice your pump running constantly, call us before it burns out.
Pressure System Diagnosis
Problem #4
Brown, Rust-Colored, or Cloudy Water
Discolored water is alarming — and often indicates something that needs prompt attention.
Brown or Rust-Colored
Usually iron — either naturally occurring in the aquifer or from a corroding pump component. Iron filtration resolves natural iron. A corroding pump means it's time for replacement before it fails completely.
Cloudy or Milky
Air in the lines (usually clears quickly — harmless), or sediment being pulled by a damaged pump impeller. If it doesn't clear fast, it needs attention.
Gray or Black Particles
Deteriorating pump components or pipe material. The pump is likely failing and pulling debris. Needs immediate diagnosis.
Sand or Grit
The pump is drawing from too close to the bottom of the well, or there's a screen failure. This wears out the pump fast — call us before it destroys your impeller.
Problem #5
Bad Taste or Smell
Your water looks fine but doesn't smell or taste right. The specific character of the taste or smell tells us a lot about the cause.
Rotten Egg / Sulfur Smell
Hydrogen sulfide — naturally occurring in many SC wells. Common in certain geologic formations. Treatable with aeration or filtration.
Metallic or Bitter Taste
Often iron or manganese. Iron filtration removes it. Can also indicate low pH corroding your plumbing — an acid neutralizer addresses this.
Earthy or Musty Smell
Bacterial growth in the well or treatment equipment. Requires testing — and possibly well disinfection or UV purification.
Any change in taste or smell warrants a water test. We include a water analysis with every service call — at no charge.
Problem #6
Air Spurting from Taps
Sputtering water with air pockets coming out of the tap. Can range from minor to serious depending on the cause.
- Dropping water table — pump is drawing air along with water; may need to lower the pump depth
- Failed check valve — water drains back between pump cycles, air enters the line when pump restarts
- Cracked or corroded well casing — air or surface water entering through a compromised casing seal
- Gas in the aquifer — less common, but certain geologic formations produce dissolved gases
Problem #7
Bacteria in Your Well Water
Coliform bacteria in well water is a serious health concern — particularly for children, elderly residents, and immunocompromised individuals. Unlike many well problems, there's no visible sign; you need a test to know.
- Surface water infiltration through a cracked or improperly sealed casing
- A well that was never properly grouted at installation
- Flooding that overwhelmed the well seal
- Old or damaged well cap allowing insect or animal entry
If your water tests positive for bacteria, we disinfect the well and address the source of contamination. UV purification provides ongoing protection against future bacterial contamination.
Problem #8
Well Going Dry or Low Yield
Your well seems to have less water than before — especially during dry seasons. This is different from a pump failure: the pump is working, but there's less water available.
- Seasonal water table fluctuation — common during drought conditions in SC
- Increased demand — more people in the household, new irrigation system added
- Aquifer depletion — in rare cases, the original aquifer is genuinely less productive
- Pump set too high — pump intake sitting above current water level
Pump Replacement
Back in Service